Black Rubber Threshold Ramp
Solid rubber is a common choice for a front door lip, heavy enough that it tends to stay where you lay it.
Disability door ramps help a wheelchair or scooter cross the step, sill or lip at a doorway. This guide goes door by door, from front steps to patio tracks and uPVC sills, so you can choose one that fits.
A disability door ramp is any ramp placed at a doorway to help a wheelchair, scooter or walking frame cross the step, sill or lip that sits there. The term covers small wedge-shaped threshold ramps in rubber or aluminium, adjustable ramps that can be set to different heights, folding ramps that are put down only when needed, and the top section of a larger fitted ramp that meets the door. What they share is that they have to work with a door: its frame, its sill, the way it opens and the weather it keeps out.
Because doors vary so much, the most useful way to choose is to start with the doorway rather than the ramp. This guide walks through the common door types in British homes and the questions each one raises.
Many front doors sit above the path, with a step up to a sill and then a small drop inside. A door ramp here often has to deal with two things at once: the height of the step outside and the lip of the sill itself. A small threshold ramp may handle the sill but not the step. A folding or modular ramp may reach the step but leave a lip at the top.
Take a moment to look at the full profile from path to hallway. Note where the height changes happen and whether there is space on the path for a longer ramp without blocking the way for other people. If the front door is the main entrance and the step is substantial, ask your council or an occupational therapist (OT) about a fitted solution rather than relying on a portable one. Our guide to front door ramps for wheelchair access covers this entrance in more depth.
Back and garden doors are often used by wheelchair users because they may have fewer steps than the front. They bring their own challenges, though.
Sliding doors usually have a raised track at the bottom. A ramp has to bridge it without pressing on the track, which could stop the door sliding or damage the seals. Look for ramps designed to sit over a track, or ask the seller whether a model has been used in that way.
Double doors often have a central bolt or a raised sill between the two leaves. Check whether the ramp needs to cover the full width or just the part the wheelchair uses, and whether it will obstruct either leaf when closed.
When the outside surface is close to the door level, a small threshold ramp may be enough. Where there is a drop, think about drainage: a ramp that traps rainwater against the door can cause problems over time.
Modern uPVC and composite doors often have a raised sill with a weather bar. A threshold ramp needs to sit snugly against it without forcing gaps that let water in. Many owners use small rubber or aluminium ramps here that sit on either side of the sill. Ask whether the ramp is designed to be fixed, rest in place or be removable, and whether fixing would affect any warranty on the door. If you rent, check with your landlord before drilling or gluing anything to the frame.
Inside the home, thresholds between rooms are usually small: a change of flooring, a door bar or a slight lip into a kitchen or bathroom. Low-profile rubber or aluminium ramps are common here. They should be firm, flat and not slide on smooth floors. A threshold strip that is too high or loose can become a trip hazard for everyone else in the house, so check how it sits once in place. Our page on doorway ramps for wheelchairs looks at indoor thresholds specifically.
This is the question people most often forget. A ramp that sits in the swing of a door can stop it opening fully, or stop it closing and locking. Before you buy, open the door to its full extent and look at the floor it passes over. For outward-opening doors, the ramp must not catch the bottom edge. For inward-opening doors, an internal threshold ramp must leave room for the door to clear it. It sounds obvious, but it is the most common reason door ramps are returned.
Also think about security and fire escape. A door that cannot close properly is a risk, and a ramp that blocks an exit could be dangerous in an emergency. If you have concerns, ask the installer or your local fire service for advice on keeping exits clear.
Measure the height from the floor or path to the top of the sill on both sides, the depth of the sill, the clear width of the doorway with the door open, and the space in front of the door on each side. Photograph the sill from the side. Then compare these notes with the maker’s guidance for each ramp you are considering, which should say what heights it is meant for. If you are not sure how steep a particular ramp would be for the person using it, ask your OT or wheelchair service rather than guessing. For portable options that can be moved between doors, see our guide to portable door ramps.
Listings for disability door ramps range from a single rubber wedge to kits with several pieces that stack to different heights. Photographs can make a small ramp look larger than it is, so read the stated measurements against your own notes rather than judging by eye. Look for a clear statement of the maximum load from the maker, and ask the seller to confirm it if the listing is vague. Check whether the ramp is meant for indoor use, outdoor use or both, since some rubber compounds are not designed for frost or strong sun.
It is also worth reading the returns terms before ordering. Door ramps are awkward to judge until they are sitting in the doorway, and a surprising number turn out to be slightly too high, too low or too deep. Check whether you can return an item that has been tried in place, whether you pay the postage, and whether any delivery offer shown on the listing applies to your address. A seller who explains these points clearly tends to be easier to deal with if the first choice is not quite right. Keep the packaging until you are sure, as some sellers ask for it.
Wheelchairs and doorways do not always get on. Frames, doors and skirting can get knocked, especially in narrow hallways. Some households fit protective strips or guards. Our page on how to protect door frames from wheelchair damage covers the options.
If a door ramp is one part of a bigger set of changes, such as widening doors or adding a ramp at the main entrance, you can ask for an assessment. The NHS page on home adaptations explains how to start, and the GOV.UK page on Disabled Facilities Grants sets out how councils consider help with adaptation costs. For permanent changes to an entrance, a professional installer or builder working with the council is the right route.
Solid rubber is a common choice for a front door lip, heavy enough that it tends to stay where you lay it.
For a back door that sees rain, a ribbed metal top gives tyres more to hold on to than a smooth surface.
Shaped underneath to clear a raised sill, this style can suit uPVC doors where you would rather not drill.
Handy where two doors in the house have different lips, since the height can be changed rather than buying twice.
Spans the whole sill with a slope on each side, a neat answer for patio door tracks that stick up.
Pieces clip together side by side, so a wide French door or garage door can be covered in one run.
Bright edging marks where the slope starts and ends on a porch step that people approach in poor light.
Worth a look if the ramp needs to come up after each use, for example on a shared front path.
A patterned grey surface for doors where you want grip without the stark black of standard rubber.